Tuesday, 26 June 2007

Mongol Costumes

Looking at traditions and history of Mongolia you can not go past the costumes of Mongolia.
When I have viewed special dance performances and seen celebrations held in the public square I have noticed the many different types of dress that is worn and wanted to find out more.
The following information and photos I have taken from postcards which are sold here and thought they give a good over view of the Mongolian costumes.



Costumes of Ethnic Groups
Mongolian ethnic costumes take one of the major parts in the study of ethnography and contribution of Mongols to the word civilization. Traditional Mongolian costumes are important commodities of cultural heritage, which reflect Mongolian nature, climate conditions, as well as important historical and social events.
By the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, there existed around 20 small ethic groups in Mongolia, and even today some ethnic traditions and customs are still kept. As of today, there are 16 ethnic groups in Mongolia. The majority of population or 80% are considered of Khalkh ethnic group. In western part of Mongolia, in Uvs and Khovd provinces live such ethic groups as Bayad (2.1% of population), Torguud (0.5% of the population), Uuld (0.6% of the population), Zakhchin (1.2% of the population), Myangad (0.3% of the population), Uriankhai (1.6% of the population), and in south and east live Darkhad (0.8% of the population), Buriyat (1.7% of the population), Barga (0.1% of the population), Uzemchin (0.1% of the population), and Dariganga (1.2% of the population). In Bayan-Ulgii province live Khazakh people, which is 4.3% of the population. There are also ethnic groups of Tuva Uriankhai 1.6%, Khoton 0.3% and Tsaatan people.
Presently, it is estimated that there are more than 400 types of traditional deel (main dress), 20 types of boots, 10 types of sash (used to tie around tummy) and more than 200 types of hats of different ethic groups. In the fast phased world of today and with globalization of the world, the Mongolian valuable traditions, customs and some of ethic groups’ costumes are forgotten from day to day.

Torguud
Oold
Buriad
Uzemchin

Urianhai

Barga
Durbed
Hoton
Zahchin
Bayad
Dariganga
Myangad

Khalha

I think out of all these my favorites are the costumes from Khalha, Barga and Dariganga. I think it is the women's head dress that stands out the most. These images are found on some handy crafts that are made here. If you look at some of the Start War movies you may see the likeness of the costumes as I think the designers took inspiration from these costumes.


Picture from one of the Star Wars Movies

Friday, 22 June 2007

The Flies That Wouldn't Die

Summer is in full swing here in Mongolia. The city has taken on a whole new look. There seems to be a hive of activity everywhere in gardens, construction and hospitality. There are a lot more tourist around and you can spot them a mile away. I have even tried to help a couple of them with directions and advice on what to see and do here. One older man was having trouble in a shop trying to work out the money. I think he was from Germany. I offered him some assistance and we chatted for a while, I also offered some advice on his personal safety as the bag he was carrying was such a target to be picked pocketed. He had mentioned that he had noticed a man had been following him around so now he was fully aware at how careful he should be.
SO the flies are out in swing now the hot weather is here. Having grown up in Australia I am used to flies. When inside you grab for the fly spray and bang they are dead. Here its a different matter. I have found that the flies here are very slow so if I am fast enough I can whack them. After chasing the flies around I decided I would pick up some fly spray on my next shop. To my amazement the spray didn't work. I then tried a different brand of spray and once again there was no effect on these super flies. I think they were all just getting drunk on the spray maybe its their vodka. On my fourth product trial I finally found something that does the job even if it takes a while for the flies to finally die. For other bugs the only ones I have seen where the ones that decided to take over our apartment a while ago. These bugs I have finally gotten under control.

Tuesday, 19 June 2007

Paige's End Of Year Class Performance

Over the past four months Paige has been attending a small school that is located in our apartment block which I had mentioned once before in a past blog.
Being summer here now most local families head out into the countryside so at the end of May each of the classes at the little school put on a performance for the parents. I only found out about what was happening a day before Paige's class was set to do their performance.
I am really looking forward to when Paige attends the preschool at the International School in September as I know the communication will be better because English is the first language spoken.

Picture: Paige (far left) standing with her class in line
During the performance Paige become very shy so only performed with her class friends for a short while. A couple of chosen children performed songs in Mongolian and it was very sweet to watch.

Picture: Paige with two Mongolian teachers



Picture: Paige with two English speaking teachers who work at the school

Saturday, 16 June 2007

Where Did You Wake Up?

Living overseas you experience good weeks and bad weeks. I must say the last two weeks I have had to remind myself "Where did you wake up today?".
We received an email from the housing department that the hot water in our building would be turned off for two weeks due to the central water department doing annual cleaning and maintenance of the water pipes. "Hmm looks like we will be using the emergency hot water heaters in our bathrooms" I thought.
With a couple of days of poor water pressure trying to get the temperature just right and boiling the kettle for washing the dishes it all wore a bit thin. I can not believe that the apartment doesn't have it own hot water service.
How the hot water system works here in UB is the hot water is heated at a central water stationed and piped around the city in cemented covered pips. The hot water is used for heating homes as well as showering. It all seems a little weird, I am so glad that we have the emergency hot water systems in both the bathrooms even at times it seemed I could "wee" harder then the pressure to the system.
The emergency showers work when you turn the single knob on and when the water passes through the system it is heated. The more you turn the small knob the cooler the water becomes, its a bit tricky getting the temperature just right. Giving Paige a shower was a nightmare.

Picture: The emergency hot water system (white in colour)

When the hot water did return after two weeks I nearly cried as I was so happy. I think I had the longest shower I have ever had and I didn't even feel guilty.
Once again we had the maintenance department come out and fix a number of items that had broken in the apartment. The furniture in our apartment is cheap and nasty stuff that after a while breaks due to wear and tear. Seeing as we are about the third family that I know of to have lived in this apartment, the furniture just isn't holding together.
In past blogs I have mentioned that we have to share vans with the other families from the company. I decided that I would look for my own driver as sharing the vans isn't that great. With no response from my ad for a driver Ben and I decided we would then maybe look at getting our own car as they are really cheap here. We had been told by friends to check if the apartment had a car space in the below ground parking garage. To our surprise the apartment does have a car space but it doesn't come with the apartment due to the landlord is leasing to someone else. So with out a car space we can not really have a car here because the engine would freeze up in winter if it is left parked outside. The housing department is looking at seeing if the company will cover the costs of leasing another car space in the garage for us.
So all I can really say is living overseas isn't always fun and games, its the little things that really do your head in. I can now see why vodka is such a popular drink here. I think its best to see the funny side of things.
Cheers and bottoms up!!!!!!!!
Picture: Chinggis the local Vodka brand

Sunday, 3 June 2007

Picnic Lunch

What a lovely day for a picnic. Paige and I joined our friends Jilly and Ian for a picnic in the Mongolian countryside. Ben was on site this weekend so it was nice to get out of the apartment and take in more of the countryside.
We set out about 9am and headed to a spot where Jilly and Ian had found on a previous drive. I was looking forward to seeing a part of the river which winds through the countryside. The drive took us about an hour to reach the river and across we went "Captain Ian" in the drivers seat. Paige calls Ian "Mr Pirate" as he pretends to talk like a pirate and she loves it. There where a number of cows, horses, sheep and goats roaming around the countryside. We passed a number of gers along the way, families had moved to the location for summer time. We kept on driving and was lucky enough to come across some men breaking in a horse. It was so interesting to watch. Mongolia is all about horseman.

Pictures: Series of pictures of horseman breaking in a horse












The horses are their life and to see them in action was just amazing. The horses roam the fields until the men need them so sometimes the horses don't like having a saddle on their backs.





Picture: Ian, Jilly & Paige at the picnic spot


We found a great place by the river and set up our picnic. It was a bit chilly so we decided to start a fire. Paige helped collect some fire wood. It was great to be in the fresh air and having a change of scenery, it was just what the doctor ordered.




Picture: Jilly and Paige saying hello to one of the cows


We could see some gers in the distance and a sheep herder on the hills. Its hard to explain the beauty of the landscape. Its kind of like a person who has a mixture of a good and bad soul.



Picture: Mountain View




Picture: The river


While we sat and ate a horse man rode past out of the trees, it was kind of like something you would see in the movies. I ran to grab my camera to try and get some shots. We all waved and watched him ride over to the gers in the distance.


Picture: Horseman riding across the field


After lunch we went for a shot walk to explore and on return to where we had parked we noticed two horseman riding our way. "Their heading over here to see if we want to hire the horses for a ride" Ian said. Both Jilly and I said no we didn't think so but sure enough Ian was right. It amazes me when I see the horseman riding it is such a traditional thing to see them do. They tied their horses to the trees and we greeted them with hand shakes. They sat near the fire and we gave them drinks and biscuits. At this same time an eagle was flying above us so Ian was throwing biscuits to it. The men where making sounds to see if the eagle would come to us but we where not that lucky.


Picture: Horseman riding over to our picnic spot



Picture: Ian holding biscuit for eagle



Picture: Horseman's waving us over from his ger in the distance


After trying to talk to the men in broken English they headed off back to their ger in the distance. We decided to take another drive and as we past the men's ger they waved us over to meet their family. Wow I thought being invited in to a families ger on the hills of Mongolia. As we entered the ger we meant one of the men's wife and two children. They were all so friendly, we where offered tea in the round bowl cups and was asked to sit. Even though we couldn't speak Mongolian and they not English it didn't matter. We where shown photographs and we showed them some photos we had taken on our digital cameras. I helped show the young girl how to take a photograph on my camera. The family was so welcoming and I saw a true part of Mongolian hospitably, it really warmed my heart. It was such a lovely day that both Paige and I enjoyed so much.


Picture: Child inside horseman's ger



Picture: Goat herders we saw on our drive back to town


Friday, 1 June 2007

Mongolian Food & Recipes

Living in Mongolia I cant say that I have found any traditional foods I really like. A lot of the foods are based on what the nomads used to eat due to the weather at the time of the year.
There isn't any well known Western fast food outlets here but there seems to be many different types of restaurants that cater to people’s tastes. There seems to be places opening all the time and depending on how popular they are will depend if the restaurant stays open.
I found this information from one of the books I was reading and thought I would add to the blog.

“The Mongolian’s dietary requirements are almost entirely met by their flocks. The only food bought in is flour and rice. Vegetables are rarely eaten. The Mongols obtain all of the necessary nutrients by eating every part of the animal, nothing is wasted. Wild onions and garlic are sometimes used to season meat dishes.
During the summer months dairy products or white foods are eaten, comprising of cheese, butter, curds and the so called yellow fat, or orum, produced by boiling off the water from milk. Excess curds are pressed into cakes and dried on the roof of the ger. This dried form is called aaruul which will keep fresh almost indefinitely. Select cuts of raw meat, prepared during the summer are hung in the ger to produce boorts, dried meats for winter use.
During the winter months the animals do not produce milk, so the diet consists of fresh meat and dried aaruul and boorts. The whole animal is eaten, only the skin and bone are left. Sheep are killed by making a small incision below the ribs and squeezing an artery, no blood is spilled or wasted. The blood is used to make sausages, similar to black pudding.
During summer the main drink is airag, fermented mare’s milk. Inside every nomad ger, to the left of the door is a wooden frame supporting a sewn-up cow skin or khoohoor, with the neck open and the shaft of a wooden paddle, or booloor sticking out. This is where the airage is fermented. Throughout the summer, milk is added and airag taken out in a continuous process. The fermenting airag must be stirred hundreds of times a day using the booloor. The drink is mildly alcoholic and has a very pleasant taste by most Mongols standards. On a smaller scale, airag can be made in a wooden bucket, (metal or plastic are never used). A similar fermented milk drink is made from camel’s milk and is treated with less respect and can be produced in a plastic barrel.
Nomads produce their own vodka or aarkhi by distilling airag. The distillation process is remarkably simple and takes about 30 minutes. The apparatus used is called a burkheer, consisting of a large pan of airag with a wide metal cylinder sitting just inside its rim. A round-bottomed pan of cold water sits on top of the cylinder and small pan hangs inside. The whole apparatus sits on the stove. The alcohol evaporates and condenses on the base of the top pan, it then runs down and drips into the small pan where it is collected. Ten litres of airag will produce about two or three litres of aakhi of about 10% alcohol by volume. Further distillations will increase it's strength.
Tea is drunk throughout the year. Chinese brick tea is used. Small pieces are broken off as required, milk and salt are added to taste”.

When the Mongolian families eat it is usually a social affair as everyone helps themselves to the pot with the meat in. Life in the city sure must be different to the one in the country side.
In my research I have come across the following recipes;
Buuz
Small filled pockets, steamed
The ingredients for dough and filling of the Buuz are exactly the same as with khuushuur and bansh, the differences are in the size, shape, and cooking method. Buuz are cooked under steam, and usually have an opening at the top.
A variety of Buuz made with yeast dough are called Mantuun Buuz.
250 g Flour, 1.5 dl Water





Filling
300 g Minced meat
Traditionally, mutton is used, other types of meat such as beef work just as well. Mongolians consider fat meat to be of higher quality, but there's no problem in using western style lean meat. Borts can also be used.

1 p Onion Minced, 2 p Garlic cloves Minced, 3-5 Ts Water, Salt Pepper Caraway to taste



Prepare the Filling

Mix minced meat, onion and garlic. Add water until the mass is smooth to work with. Add enough salt and spices (the dough has no salt).

Prepare the dough
Mix flour and water to create a pliable dough. Let it rest for 15 min.
Cut the dough into 2 cm (0.8 in) thick slices, roll the slices.
Cut the rolls into pieces of 3 cm (1.2 in), flatten the pieces with a finger.
Form the pockets
The decorative design of the buuz is a matter of honor for the cook. At first, the result will probably look a bit clumsy. Mongolian experts produce small miracles in no time almost without looking. There are several different possibilities to form the buuz, but the beginning is always the same. The pieces of dough are rolled into circles of about 7 cm (2.8 in) diameter, making the center slightly thicker than the edge. It is best only to roll as many circles you can process further within a few minutes. Forming the pockets will be more difficult when the dough is already starting to get dry.
Hold one circle the open hand and place about one tea spoon of the meat mass in the center.


Round Buuz
This is the most traditional shape, and differs the most from the other forms of Mongolian filled pockets.


Fold the edge at one side, and press it together with your fingers. Create another fold next to the previous one, slightly offset to the outside, and press it together as well.
Continue this way, continuously rotating the buuz as you go along. When done right, then this will result in a ring, which keeps the pocket together at the top. A small opening remains open in the center.


Folded Buuz
This method doesn't require as much dexterity, but also yields an esthetically pleasing result.
Fold the circle from both sides, and press the opposing edges together in the middle over the meat.
Fold the edges from across as well, and press them together into the previous connection.
The result is a flower like pouch, with four openings around the top.
With a little practise, you can also try to make six "petals".
Semicircular Buuz
This shape is normally reserved for Khuushuur or Bansh, but as shown here, it is extremely quick to produce.
Fold the circle into half, to crate a crescent shape with the edges lying on top of each other.
Press the edges together along the semi circle to close the Buuz.
Place the Buuz on its "back", and compress the round edge by lifting the ends. This will result in various shapes, with a meandering edge.



Cooking the Buuz
The finished Buuz are cooked under steam without pressure. The easiest way to do this is a special pan with perforated inlays. Such inlays are also available for normal pans. Flat and wide inlays are used for the wok type pan used on the stove in the yurt.
Oil the inlays, or dip the bottom of each Buuz in oil.
Place the Buuz on the inlay, ideally without touching each other.
Fill sufficient water into the bottom of the pan.
Insert inlays, close the lid, and don't open it anymore until the Buuz are finished.
Keep the steam going for about 15 min.
Now open the lid, and fan some air to the Buuz, eg. with a cutting board. This will give them a glossy look, and a tasty looking slightly reddish color.


Serving suggestions
The tradition Mongolian cuisine knows very little vegetable, so that the Buuz are considered a complete meal (possibly with Ketchup or other condiment). Served this way the quantities given are good for 2 people.
When served with vegetables or other side dishes, the quantities should easily feed 4 people.
Of course, modern technology won't stop even in front of traditional dishes like Buuz. All of Buuz, Bansh, and Khuushuur are sold in Mongolian supermarkets frozen and packaged and ready to cook. But the results of our comparative experiments were unambiguous: Handmade tastes better almost by principle!


Guriltai Shul
A hearty soup with meat and fried noodles.
As with any soup, the ingredients and their relative amounts can be varied at will. In the Mongolian cuisine the only constants are the presence of meat and noodles.


Ingredients

150 g Vegetables Cut into small pieces, 1 p Onion Cut in stripes, 200 g Meat or borts. Cut meat in small pieces stripes. Soak borts at least 10 min in water (the longer the better).

300 g Tasalsan Guril, Fried noodles, Water, Salt Pepper Other spices at will.

Preparation
Saute the onion stripes in the pot with a little oil.
Add the vegetables (slow cooking types first) and keep frying.
Add the meat and fry it as well.
Add salt, pepper, and other spices at will, and keep frying. The joint frying decides about the aroma of the soup.
Add sufficient water, so that it will reach for the noodles as well, and heat up until it boils.
Add the fried noodles, and boil everything for about 5 minutes.
Season to taste.
The finished soup can be refined with curds, cream, or tomato puree (although the latter isn't common in the Mongolian cuisine).


Suutei Tsai
Tea with milk and salt.
Put the tea into a pan of water and let it boil a short moment. Now add about the same amount of milk to the water, and boil the mix again. Instead of stirring, the Mongolians will lift out some liquid with a ladle and let it splash back from a certain height. This brings enough movement into the liquid in the flat pan on the yurt stove. In the end, season to taste with salt and strain into a teapot.
This tea is served in little bowls. It is the standard beverage to every meal. Of course, you can also buy milk tea as instant powder nowadays. That doesn't offer quite the same enjoyment as a beverage made with fresh milk on the yurt stove, but can be quite practical when travelling.